Observations at the start of my 3rd visit

What’s Changed?

1. Me
On my first trip to Rwanda I had a lot of fears- I didn’t know anyone and everything was new and different. I was forced to adapt, overcome fears, and make friends quickly. I notice these traits kick in much more quickly each time I return. I also don’t feel the immediate pressure to travel the whole country in the first month. I’ve seen many parts already, and I have more weekends to spread out the fun. I’ve been approached by two new friends who were “told” I was the person to talk to for weekend trip ideas and outdoor activities. Not a bad reputation to have! In some ways returning is easier because I already know people, I’ve worked in this building, and I’ve lived in this apartment complex. In other ways it is harder because I miss more things from home now that some of the new-ness of Rwanda has worn off. For this trip I ended a job, moved out of an apartment, and left a significant other in DC, these things are much harder.

2. The City
Each time I return to Rwanda, colleagues and friends update me on many changes to buildings, roads, and restaurants while I've been away. Rwanda continues to develop at the speed of light. I heard that a new Kenyan grocery store chain had opened called Nakumat, so I went there on my third day. It is amazing! Almost like Target (although pricier)…there are even beauty/health and electronics sections. I sort of miss the challenge of finding all these items secondhand from street vendors or in small un-marked shops around Rwanda. I also learned Indian Kahzana restaurant closed, which was a favorite among ex-pats especially for the lively birthday singing and yummy food. There is a new flashy, neon-lit, hilltop hotel that no one I know has stayed in, but is rumored to be bringing slot machines to Rwanda. The Novotel (where I stayed in July) has changed management hoping to boost the quality of rooms and service (which was needed!) The Ministry of Health is re-organizing…we are not sure how this will impact our work yet; it may only be structural/name changes or may involve new authorities.

3. The People
There are constantly new members of the CDC and US Embassy team. I am sad that Marie-Claire is no longer here in Rwanda and we have lost two other important Rwandan members of our CDC team to other jobs. I will miss Mahita who provided my first introductions to Rwanda life and expectations. She worked here 4 years, and has now moved back to the States for an exciting new job. I am happy though to have already met some fun new friends on the team.

4. The Work
Both times I have been to Rwanda have been in the summertime and we worked mostly to gear up for and execute end of fiscal year spending and the next year’s budget and HIV/AIDS program planning. I am here for that time period as well as the “off-season” this time. The work is still very busy but more focus is made on managing human resources (hiring and transitioning team members), working with the grantees proactively, and planning ahead for retreats and the upcoming budget season. I also had a chance to visit Atlanta and meet many headquarters staff before I came this time, which will immensely improve my efficiency. I am excited to be here during this planning phase and hope to develop more tools to leave behind that will help future teams track and plan progress.

What is the Same?

1. The Beauty
I always wonder if the striking beauty of this country will fade the next time I visit. Not so. When I arrived after dark last Saturday (the sun sets at 5:30pm), I couldn’t decide whether I liked Kigali better in the dark or in the daylight. At night the view includes rolling hills of flickering lights, the sound of palm leaves waving in the tropical breeze, and the smell of burning wood mixed with lush green (is that a scent?!). In the daytime the sun shines brightly nearly every day. The view includes rolling hills of brown/red city streets, green lush ground cover in the distance, and bright flowers in nearly every yard. The streets are crowded with hundreds walking, uniformed school children headed to class, cars speeding around motos, and small mini-buses packed with busy people.

2. The Weather
I’ve never known a place with such perfect weather. If it is grey for 10 minutes in the morning the office is a –buzz wondering what is wrong, questioning the effects of climate change in the world? I have yet to be here in the heart of the “rainy season” but have heard it also merely involves a brief heavy afternoon shower.

3. The People
The culture is as cautious and yet welcoming as ever. I had warm welcome from many friends and colleagues. Our relationship with the Rwandan government to get our work done remains strong. The Rwandans are active participants in our partnership on improvements to health care and disease prevention; it continues to be a privilege to work here.

4. The Work
Daniel (our Deputy Director) is leaving again. This time he and I only had 3 days to transition. I will fill in for many of his duties again. He needs shoulder surgery, will recuperate in Atlanta, and will return to Rwanda in mid-August. More than his oversight and advice, I will miss the energy and companionship he brings to the team here. Wearing many hats, jumping-in to big decision-making, navigating the collaborative teams among three bureaucratic organizations- these things have not changed and I hope to thrive again under these challenges.