BBQ at the Car Wash

There are often goodbye and hello gatherings for the transitioning expatriates living (temporarily) in Rwanda. Sadly, my friend Noni is leaving in two weeks after 2 years in Rwanda, so there are many fun gatherings planned to wish her well.

On Sunday evening we went to Car Wash, an outdoor restaurant with affordable nyama chomo (grilled/roasted meat) by the kilo and car washing!

We ordered a table full of pork and goat nyama chomo!
I couldn't resist capturing the hanging meat on film. (Sorry vegetarians!)
One of our team members, Steve, organized the gathering for Noni. He even called ahead to make sure they had enough pork for 20 people and that it would be slow roasted before we arrived!
One of the managers offered to be a photographer for me. This place has great service, a lively ambiance, and the food is delicious.

The Official Kigali City Tour

I returned to Kigali to continue working through the end of September. The work is challenging as usual, but I feel different because there is a light at the end of the tunnel and I know the last couple months will fly-by.

August through October is the busiest time of the year here in our office as we closeout this year's budget and plan for next year's programs. We typically have a surge of temporary staff to help during the "season".

A couple of our visiting team members invited me to join them for the"official" Kigali city tour, which costs $20 and leaves twice a day from the Office of Tourism and National Parks. Not surprisingly when we showed up for the Saturday 8AM tour (after having called to arrange it) there was no tour driver available. I say not surprising, because one thing you learn quickly in Rwanda is to be patient and not expect that service or products will arrive on-time or in the way you would like! That sounds harsh, but truthfully is a good lesson to learn and I have come to appreciate it. So, instead we took the tour on Sunday afternoon. The three of us traveled around Kigali for four hours in this bus with one other tourist from Canada.

Our driver, Tim, was pretty good at reciting stories and facts about Kigali sites.
First we stopped at the Genocide Memorial of Belgian Soldiers at Camp Kigali. This is the location of the massacre of 10 Belgian UN Blue Berets which happened on the first day of the genocide. Under the command of Canadian General Romeo Dallaire, they were deployed to guard the house of moderate Prime Minister Agatha Uwilingimana when soldiers invaded the home and transported them to this location where they were killed.

The building is a disturbing reminder of the weapons and violence.

Next we traveled to the Kigali Memorial Centre(Gisozi), which is a very well-done museum about Rwanda's past, present, and future related to the genocide in 1994. The exhibit includes 2,500 personal interviews, 25,000 personal profiles of missing victims recorded, and over 2,000 photographs of victims.

There is a really beautiful view of Kigali behind the Memorial Centre.
And there are four acres of pretty gardens to explore.
This is also the burial site for over 250,000 victims of the genocide.
From there , we drove around many of the neighborhoods in Kigali.

Including near my favorite grocery store called Simba- it's big!

And around the Roundabout Nyarugenge; the one with the fountain in downtown Kigali.

We drove past the popular roundabout near Kimihurura where nearly every married couple in Kigali takes a wedding photo near the fountain.

We also went to Nyamirambo, which is a lively, low to mid-income part of town where there is a small cinema and a large mosque.

Here are other views of Nyamirambo from the balcony of the cinema.

We rode through Nyarutarama, which is the newest part of Kigali with very large, new homes. And we stopped at Caplaki, a small village of artists stalls where handicrafts are sold.

There are many, many places to get your hair done but rather than "Salon", they are called Saloons.

In the heart of downtown Kigali, one of the mini-marts is named Obama mini market.

Also downtown, there are lots of opportunities to buy pre-wrapped boxes (empty!) for all of your gift-giving needs.

President Obama Visits Ghana

President Obama's recent visit to Ghana created a buzz around Africa, and many in Rwanda want to know when he is coming here. The Rwanda daily newspaper reported that Ghananians had been asked to refrain from any burials because of President Obama's visit...I doubt he would have supported that! This photo was sent from colleagues in Ghana...

Obama speaks of hopes for Africa

(from BBC http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/africa/8145762.stm)

US President Barack Obama, on his first trip to sub-Saharan Africa since taking office, has said Africa must take charge of its own destiny in the world. Mr Obama told parliament in Ghana during a one-day stay that good governance was vital for development. Major challenges awaited Africans in the new century, he said, but vowed that the US would help the continent.
The US president's trip came at the end of a summit of eight of the world's most powerful nations, held in Italy. Ghana was chosen as the destination for the president's visit because of its strong democratic record.

After his speech, Mr Obama headed to Cape Coast Castle, a seaside fortress converted to the slave trade by the British in the 17th Century. He was accompanied by his wife, Michelle, a descendant of African slaves, and both of his young daughters. People crowded into a public area outside the fort to greet Mr Obama, with those unable to get a place in the throng climbing onto nearby roofs and filling balconies just to catch a glimpse of the US leader. Speaking after a tour of the fort, Mr Obama said the fort should be a source of hope as well as repository of painful memories. "It reminds us that as bad as history can be, it's always possible to overcome," he said.

Earlier in the day, Mr Obama spoke to members of parliament after a breakfast meeting with Ghanaian President John Atta Mills. He wore a broad grin as he was greeted at the podium by a series of rousing horn blasts from within the hall. "I have come here to Ghana for a simple reason," the US president said: "The 21st Century will be shaped by what happens not just in Rome or Moscow or Washington, but by what happens in Ghana as well." Delivering a message that "Africa's future is up to Africans", Mr Obama conceded that the legacy of colonialism had helped breed conflict on the continent. "But the West is not responsible for the destruction of the Zimbabwean economy over the last decade, or wars in which children are enlisted as combatants," he added. He praised Ghana's own progress, governance and economic growth, saying Ghana's achievements were less dramatic than the liberation struggles of the 20th Century but would ultimately be more significant.

"Development depends upon good governance," Mr Obama told legislators. "That is the ingredient which has been missing in far too many places, for far too long. Expanding on his message, Mr Obama said four key areas were critical to the future of Africa and of the entire developing world, citing democracy, opportunity, health and the peaceful resolution of conflict. "Africa doesn't need strongmen, it needs strong institutions," Mr Obama told his audience.
"No person wants to live in a society where the rule of law gives way to the rule of brutality and bribery. That is not democracy, that is tyranny." He pledged to continue strong US support for public healthcare initiatives in Africa, and called for sensible use of natural resources such as oil in the face of the threat of climate change.